NEW YORK: India’s first Michelin-star chef Hemant Mathur has shared the challenges and triumphs that have marked his journey from humble beginnings to becoming one of New York’s most celebrated billionaire restaurateur.
In an exclusive conversation with The New Indian’s Executive Editor Rohan Dua, Mathur, who hails from Rajasthan, India, shared how started his career in the kitchens of prestigious hotels like the Taj and the Mauryas in Delhi and Jaipur.
Opening his first restaurant, Devi, in 2000, Mathur recalled facing significant hurdles.
“Securing funding was tough. There were moments when I questioned if I could make it,” he confessed.
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“I focused on creating a menu that was both modern and deeply rooted in Indian traditions, with dishes like Gujarati corn curry and lotus root kofta that New Yorkers had never seen,” Mathur said. “It was all about showing that Indian food is more than just flavors; it’s a story, a history, and an experience.”
Devi gained recognition, and in 2007, it made history as the first Indian restaurant to earn a Michelin star.
“That moment was surreal,” Mathur remembers.
“It proved that Indian food could be celebrated at the highest levels of culinary excellence. It changed my career forever.” He added, “I remember the day the Michelin guide came out. I was on edge, waiting for the announcement. When I found out, I felt all those years of struggle finally meant something.”
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The hard work paid off, and today, Mathur owns five successful restaurants in New York City, including Veerays, his latest venture. The restaurant, a speakeasy-themed dining experience, blends Indian flavors with New York’s Prohibition Era history. “Veerays was born out of the idea of combining my cultural heritage with a New York twist,” Mathur shared.
“The concept is not just about food but about storytelling. We wanted to create an experience that transports our guests, making them feel like they’re part of a secret chapter of New York’s history.”
He also remembered how when he arrived in New York, life was far from glamorous.
“When I first moved to New York, I faced many obstacles—financial strain, cultural adjustment, and the pressure of standing out in a competitive market,” Mathur recounted.
“I knew that to succeed, I had to be exceptional, and that required long hours, relentless dedication, and sacrifices.”
“There were nights I didn’t sleep, worrying about how I was going to keep the lights on or pay my staff. But each challenge taught me something valuable about resilience and creativity.”
Despite the difficulties, Mathur’s passion for authentic Indian cuisine, combined with an unwavering commitment to quality, laid the groundwork for his success.
Despite the success, the journey was not without its struggles. “I faced criticism, especially in the early years, about presenting Indian food in a refined manner,” Mathur explained. “People would say, ‘Indian food is only spicy,’ but I was determined to show its depth and diversity. Indian cuisine has layers of flavor that transcend stereotypes. It’s a celebration of textures, spices, and history.”
Mathur’s story is one of resilience, ingenuity, and a deep love for his craft. “Every dish I create is a testament to the journey I’ve had full of struggles but also immense rewards,” Mathur shared. “I never wanted to be just another chef; I wanted to change the narrative of what Indian food can be.” His career continues to inspire budding chefs, proving that with determination and passion, dreams can be turned into reality.